Every state has its own tradition and culture which reflects in its traditional jewelry. Traditional Jewelry of tamilnadu is worn as a tradition, and everyone is seen wearing some ornament or the other. The ancient jewelry making tradition of this region speaks of a high degree of excellence and workmanship.
A total number of 36 kinds of Ornamental jewelry were used then, but now most of the jewelry names are not even known to many of the younger generations. Just to remind them of the past lifestyles and fashions, I list below a few of the jewelry and ornaments that were used in those olden days and their scientific value in practical terms.
Yester years’ women’s favorite ornaments are listed with their usage and explained with their significance of wearing the same. For your information, some of the traditional jewelry of tamilnadu has lost its identity and it’s almost vanished. From head to toe, you’ve got traditional jewelry of tamilnadu to wear and decorate.
Traditional Jewelry of Tamil Nadu:
1. Vanki or Armlets:
On hands, other than bangles they used to wear kaikappu, Vanki on arms, Vanki ring on fingers. These ‘V’ shaped armlets have a unique design in the center and delicately carved peacocks or florals on the side. Unlike the necklaces, which bulked up thanks to the black string, this pair of vanki, which were probably made in Thanjavur, looked solid and heavy on their own.
2. Oddiyanam (Hip Belt):
Another jewelry ornament knowingly used by Indian women as Hip Belt called Oddiyaanam. This too, made of Silver, but the usage of this is not common. It very particularly wont to control women from getting fatter and to avoid flabs in hip and pot belly. Since no women uses lately this ornament, one can see the results that’s visible.
3. Maanga Malai:
For neck, Kaasu Malai, Maanga Malai, Haaram and Addigai worn very close to neck. The Maangamalai maybe a necklace of mangoes, stunning in appearance, consisting of stone-studded gold mangoes struck alongside an enormous pendant of an encrusted peacock. It is worn on the chest just above the navel and is said to prevent pulmonary disorders.
4. Nose Stud:
On Nose, other than Nose Stead, they used to wear Beasari its seven or eight stone nose stead, Bullakku, A designer jewel worn in the center of the nose.
5. Earrings:
On ear mostly Jhumkas, Kadukkan a small stud for men, Pampadam gold earring with hallow balls and squares filled with lac., worn by old ladies. Other than that, Mattal, Thandatti, Lolakku, Kundalam, and lots more.
6. Thalaisamaan:
Finally, on head they have thalaisamaan in which ornaments shaped like the sun and moon are worn on the parting of the hair along the forehead. For hair decoration, they want to wear raakkodi or naagar.
7. Jadanagam:
Below this, jadanaagam which looks like a snake worn on the plaited hair in an intertwined design, and Kunjam at the end of the braid. So, it’s so common to ascertain a lady wearing jewelry and Tamilnadu shows the best craftsmanship with the highest degree of brilliance and workmanship.
8. Metti (Toe Ring):
To begin with, an Item used as Metti by Indian married women made of Silver. This is a hoop with two- or three-line rounds, worn in their second finger from toe.
9. Anklet (Kolusu):
Anklet or Kolusu worn above their feet joint, Thandai, Silambu, Kappu are the jewelry which are worn before on the feet which we barely see now.
Tamil Bridal Jewelry:
The Chettiar Bride
With a rich cultural foundation, a Tamil Chettiar wedding is usually an elaborate affair with multiple ceremonies held over five to six days. Reflecting her rich cultural heritage is a Chettiar bride’s heavy gold ornaments that are studded with precious gems and boast exquisite workmanship.
Here’s an inventory of the must-have pieces in her bridal jewelry set:
1. Kempu Kal Mothiram:
Traditionally designed finger rings studded with a variety of gems, the kempu kal mothiram is crafted to glimmer on a bride’s fingers.
2. Kempu Kal Valai:
Forged from gold and precious stones, Kempu Kal Valai are heavy gold bangles that worn by almost all Tamil brides on their big day.
3. Netti Chutti:
A long gold chain with a multicolored gem-encrusted locket, the netti chutti rests on the bride’s forehead and is a must-have on every Chettiar bride’s list.
4. Mulla Muttu Maalai:
One of the longest necklaces worn by the Chettiar bride, the Mulla Muttu Maalai has a unique spiked design that makes a bold statement.
5. Kaluthiru:
Considered to be the protector of a husband, the Kalithru is the Mangal sutra equivalent for the Chettiar bride and is crafted out of a string of minute black beads with a locket within the center.
6. Mookku Vaḷaiyam or Mukkuthi:
An ornate nose ring studded with precious gems or pearls and forged with gold, the mukkuthi glimmers on the bride’s nostril.
The Gounder Bride:
Swathed in luxury, the Gounder Bride loves her gold and carries its weight with aplomb. Refined, sumptuous, and usually three-day extravaganzas, Gounder weddings are a treat for the eyes. Dressed in a glimmering Kanjeevaram saree, a Gounder bride resembles a goddess, just like the ones intricately depicted in her jewellery designs.
Here’s an inventory of the must-have pieces in her bridal jewelry set:
1. Thali or Mangala naan:
An auspicious neck ornament is gifted to the bride by the groom once it’s blessed by all the elders, the Mangala Naan is then tied by the groom around the bride’s neck.
2. Netri Pattai:
A unique matha patti, the netri pattai is a slender band of beads tied around the bride’s forehead that highlights her eyes.
3. Mattal Jimikki:
Mirroring the shape of a bell, the Jimikki is a versatile ornament with ear chains/extensions.
4. Sigappu Kal Attigai:
One of the many-layered necklaces with intricate designs worn by the Gounder Bride, the Siggapu Kal Attigal is usually the smallest of all, and placed at the base of her throat.
5. Lakshmi Naga Malai:
Capturing the beauty of temple design perfectly, the Lakshmi Naga Malai is an ornate necklace that blesses the bride with its depiction of Goddess Lakshmi.
6. Kasu Malai:
Classic in design, this necklace contains multiple coins embossed with auspicious symbols, the most common being that of the revered Goddess Lakshmi.
7. Metti:
A silver toe ring that is prevalent across cultures and signified the married status of the woman, the metti is usually gifted to the bride by her in-laws.
8. Mookku Vaḷaiyam or Mukkuthi:
An ornate nose ring studded with precious gems and forged with gold, the mukkuthi golimmers on the bride’s nostril.
9. Ungila:
A V-shaped gold ring that resembles a mini vanki, the Ungila is sometimes also studded with diamonds.
The Brahmin Bride:
Fusing opulence with elegance, the Tamil Brahmin bride’s wedding is a treat for the eyes. Simple yet striking, the marriage ceremonies of this community are deeply rooted in tradition.
For this bride, her jewelry speaks volumes about her culture, and this is reflected in her collection of necklaces, waistbands, and hair accessories. An inventory of the must-have pieces in her bridal jewelry set:
1. Netti Chutti:
A long gold chain with a multicolored gem-encrusted locket dangling at the end, the netti chutti rests on the bride’s forehead.
2. Vanki:
With its unique curved ‘V-shape’ design, the Aravanki is a versatile ornament that has been adapted throughout generations. Worn on the arm, this piece comes in all varieties from delicate gold to the more elaborate ones studded with diamonds and rubies.
3. Suryapirai and Chandrapirai:
Worn by the bride on either side of her hair parting, the Suryapirai (sun-shaped) and Chandrapirai (moon-shaped) ornamental jewels studded with colorful gemstones.
4. Kal Jhimki:
Fringed with pearls and embellished with precious stones, this versatile pair of jhumkas (dangling earrings) is worn during festive occasions and by brides.
5. Kempu Attigai:
A short gold chain with a heavy and bold ruby-encrusted locket that sits in between the bride’s collar bones, the Kempu Attigai is usually also accompanied by matching jhimkis (earrings).
6. Kilikasu Haram:
Fringed with delicate gold coins with an intricately carved gold pendant in the center, the Kilikasu Haram is a striking accessory that layered with other neckpieces.
7. Ottiyanam:
One of the most standout pieces in every South Indian bride’s jewelry collection, the Ottiyanam is an elaborate waist belt that accentuates the bride’s figure and holds her saree together.
8. Metti:
A silver toe ring that is prevalent across cultures and signified the married status of the woman, the metti is usually gifted to the bride by her in-laws.
9. Kolusu:
An essential accessory in many Indian brides’ jewelry box, the Kolusu are delicate anklets that tinkle with every step.
